2018 Fashion Industry of the Year Keywords: tangled, subversive, tribute, young

The popular trend is essentially the death of life and the dramatic changes. The deep logic behind each change is very worthy of attention by industry professionals. Therefore, at the end of each year, in addition to interpreting the changes in the latest trends, we will understand the trend of the next year. It also takes a little time to learn about the inner driving forces of this industry change, because they are the source of all these changes.

In 2018, on a global scale, the fashion industry is still in the midst of a wave of change and innovation, presenting a complex and multi-layered appearance.

“Tangle”, because exploration is still in the deep water area; “subversion” is the choice of the pioneers of innovation; “tribute” comes from the respect of the watchers; “young”, time is always the biggest variable.

These four key words seem to have no connection, but they point to the past year. In the process of vying with the market, the fashion industry, brands, and practitioners have done nothing. Because "the road ahead is unclear," in the past year, many brands that have been shouldering the shoulders have embarked in a completely different direction. In each of the keywords, we have cut one or two iconic brands, events, and industry trends for further consideration.

Tangled

Self-help "slow" fast fashion giant

In the low tide period, in order to win market attention and consumers' renewed respect and trust, many fast fashion brands began to “return to the main business of clothing” and work hard on products and brand image.

For example, Uniqlo first tried to cooperate with the animation and movie IP in pop culture. Since 2015, they have announced a global cooperation with Disney, and opened a special store in the store of Uniqlo to create a concept store to provide Disney, Marvel and Star Wars themes. product. For example, H&M, which is far behind competitor ZARA in terms of volume and sales, has chosen a new sub-brand and a joint-brand brand to win more user attention and enhance brand recognition. Compared with the H&M fast fashion brand line, which is often “blacklisted” due to quality problems, the design and quality of COS are very good, and gradually occupy a large sales share of the group.

Industry experts believe that in the past few years, the penetration of fast fashion brands from first-tier cities to second- and third-tier cities has entered the Chinese market more as a strategic layout. After the brand effect and the market size reached a certain level and achieved the accumulation effect, the fast fashion brand became more efficient in terms of operational efficiency, whether it was closing the store or laying out high-end brand, including slowing down, paying attention to quality, designing towards classics and so on. The service is still adjusted to meet the needs of the masses. In the end, it is to maximize the benefits of service. The fast fashion brand “slows down” and is also a reflection of the changes in consumer demand.

Big-name transformation wants character? Want to sell?

"Large brand tide card", the quality of the more and more reduced has been a controversial area in the past two years. On the one hand, in order to cater to consumers, the big names need to combine the hot elements of the moment to transform. Therefore, we have seen the consistent "high cold" image of the Chanel girl also began to wear slippers and sportswear, saw the "devil wearing Prada", also fell in love with superhero anime, for a while, the brand's old Fans almost never started to know their own designs.

The clever big names also stole the Drop mode that is often used in street fashion cards. For example, the old British fashion house Burberry announced that since October 2018, new items will be available on the 17th of each month. Available in Drop mode, this line of items will be separated from the traditional release.

Most people in the industry believe that luxury brands are launching “fast” and “young” new single-item series and new sales methods, which are inevitable choices in the current market. But this "mix and match" two-line business approach is a test of the big-name marketing and innovation capabilities. In general, the big names want to maintain the consistent "quality assurance" signboard, should not lower the standard because of "quick fast", after all, in the long run, retaining fans and fan base is still the main goal, "fast Money is quick to make, but sustainability is open to question.

subversion

Unrecognizable new CELINE

At the helm of Phoebe Philo, Celine, known for his coolness, was finally "unrecognizable" at the Paris Fashion Week in the fall of 2018 under the transformation of Hedi Slimane.

The new CELINE main style is rock, vintage and sexy. The new CELINE, which adds street elements such as leather, rivets and sequins, looks more like the best choice for the modern girls on the streets of New York City. Rather than the pure color of the road, hidden lines, low-key urban white-collar women's favorite. Some people ridicule this change is like "the literary and artistic knowledge of women began to smoke and drink hot", which shows that the new and old brand design is a strong contrast.

However, despite the old powder, Hedi Slimane has been strongly supported by the group. They believe that Hedi Slimane and his new CELINE have created new concerns, which is actually the end of the retail low tide. The good thing, the marketing law of "controversial and topical" seems to have worked on the new CELINE, but this change can gain market strength for a long time, and now it is still premature to say that it is still too early.

Louis Vuitton on the streets

In the spring and summer of 2019 men's clothing week, Off-White founder Virgil Abloh as the first black designer in the history of Louis Vuitton to take charge of the men's fashion show, for everyone to enjoy a street full of colorful, colorful to the sky "rainbow men" Big show.

Off-White is the leader in street fashion, and Louis Vuitton's "new debut" this season has also been interpreted by industry professionals as the iconic work of the big names becoming more and more street-oriented and trendy.

It can be said that such subversive innovations have no distinction between good and bad, only aesthetic arguments. Those who oppose large-scale street styles believe that the street culture's “no style creation” is engulfing the strong brand personality of high fashion and history. For example, men's clothing week in spring and summer, dozens of shows, bright colors, artistic totems and "changing soup without changing medicine" logo shirt, while impacting everyone's vision, but also make people feel tired, began to miss the early years of those forever Classic gentleman style. But how many young users "Old Fashion" can leave for the brand is also a question mark. In 2018, looking for the scale of exploration in the entanglement is almost the "day question" of all the big names to be solved.

pay tribute

Back to Versace 20 years ago

If you are sorting out the 2018 fashion trend keywords, the "nostalgic style" is bound to climb to the top. And the most direct and concrete expression of it is Versace.

In the design of 2017 and 2018, Donatella Versace has more than once chosen to remember his brother Gianni Versace from the classic style of the 1980s to the 1990s. Gorgeous yellow prints, traditional animal prints, boxed leather jackets with metal studs, and wrap skirts filled with pop art paintings all make us dream back 20 years ago, all for warmth. Nostalgic and eternal tribute.

In October 2018, Versace was eventually included in the luxury group Michael Kors. In the current situation, Donatella Versace's “looking back” in the past two years seems to be more like reminding everyone not to forget the wonderful works of the ghost creators in the glorious years. And her purpose can be said to have been achieved, though, the ending of the story is not particularly beautiful.

"Revival" Saddle Bag Dior

The fashion trend is a circle, going around and returning to the original point. This law was once again verified on the Dior women's dress that Maria Grazia Chiuri was in charge of.

In the Dior2018 autumn and winter ready-to-wear collection, we once again saw the classic Saddle Bag saddle bag of the John Galliano era. The familiar "CD" printing made us wonder, and the previous creative days.

The classic "revival" also brought real economic benefits to Dior. According to eBay's latest 2018 shopping report, Maria Grazia Chiuri's re-interpreted saddle bag has achieved nearly 20% growth during the year. They believe that this kind of work that compliments the current trend in the tribute can be It is regarded as the positive effect of Dior's younger strategy, and this kind of "operation" is very worthy of similar big-name reference learning.

young

The rise of "Millennial Generation" demand

In 2018, at least one point is that global practitioners have reached a general consensus that millennials are the main force in the luxury sector, and their needs are changing the industry.

Based on past data, Bain Consulting concluded that the Millennials, born between 1983 and 1997, accounted for 85% of the total growth of the global luxury goods market in 2017.

In terms of the Chinese market alone, McKinsey research believes that China's luxury goods revenue increased by 15%-20% in the first half of the year, and the “post-95s” young generation is the main force in the growth of luxury consumption.

Industry experts believe that the 20-34-year-old Chinese young people's luxury goods consumption is earlier and more frequent, and the range of products purchased from jewelry, fashion items, beauty and bags is very wide. Their luxury consumption path is highly digital and fragmented. And brands want to get close to these young people, for example, to do more work on e-commerce and digital marketing. Therefore, in 2018, we will see the big brands that have been so cold and cold. We will choose to join hands with big-name e-commerce companies. We will continue to open flash-flash shops one after another, and even look for net red, shivering sounds, fast hands, and young people. The means of showing good is endless. However, whether such a "low-profile" can reap the fruits of market feedback remains to be further tested.

The luxury "new retail revolution" in the hidden state

In 2017, the Tmall App quietly launched a Luxury Pavilion channel. In 2018, along with the successive entry of Valentino, Versace and other big names, this new gameplay, which was “secret and undisputed” by e-commerce and big-name, gradually “set off its hijab”.

First of all, this app is not actually visible to everyone. Because it is virtually embedded, the so-called virtual embedding refers to a shopping channel that is only open to users who are directed to invite, and it comes from the dual choice between luxury goods and consumers. This means that those who can "see" this channel, who can access this channel, may only be luxury brands, and their absolute target consumers.

The facts also prove that after years of unintentional “disorderly medical treatment”, many big names have expressed enough interest to the e-commerce giants to stand in the center of huge traffic, secret and unique sales methods. Cast a lot of olive branches. In the transcripts of the big-name luxury partners that Tmall seized in 2018, we can see that the data shows that a total of 35 luxury brands have settled in the Luxury Pavilion this year, and these brands are all ambitious and without exception. It is eager to win the favor of young Chinese consumers.