London Fashion Week is still the most exciting birthplace for rookie

London, England – London's emerging fashion design community is still alive.

At London Fashion Week, everyone's eyes will naturally focus on Riccardo Tisci's first new series released by Burberry's creative director, and the re-return of Victoria Beckham to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand's 10th anniversary. But despite this, many young women's wear brands are still steadily at their own pace.

One of the best brands is proving that London is still the birthplace of the world's most exciting fashion ideas. In the past few decades, the city has long been synonymous with breaking the rules and promoting the boundaries of design.

This season's fresh is a new vision for business, this season's emerging designer series together reflect this feature. Art school graduates’ usual fears of commercial or stifling artistic expression seem to have vanished – the best collections of the season have achieved an excellent balance.

London Fashion Week kicked off on Friday, and the leading Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov presented a series of futuristic styles in the intimate London Swiss Church. Kostadinov is known for its substituting pragmatism and is increasingly attracting attention from young and savvy street fashion shoppers, attracting them with gorgeous color schemes and a high regard for technical fabrics.

The design collaboration between Asics, Camper and Stüssy, which was popular and sold out, made the design rookie even more popular. From the Spring/Summer 2018 series to the 2018 Fall/Winter collection, it is not surprising that the number of branded retailers has increased by 40%.

This also strengthens Kostadinov's willingness to expand its creative vision and expand its brand business. Since December 2016, the designer has also served as creative director of the Mackintosh designer series Mackintosh 0001. In January 2018, Affix Works, a street fashion show, was launched. It is quite popular among retailers such as Mr Porter, Ssense and The Broken Arm. popular.

His women's wear brand has also changed. This season, Kostadinov appointed Central Saint Martin's graduates, twin sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning (the latter is his girlfriend) to oversee the future women's collection, and Kostadinov said it will help raise the brand's overall visibility.

“I realized that I had to focus on one thing, because I don’t have any personal vision for the women’s collection right now,” Kostadinov said. “A small brand like me can invite two creative directors like big brands. It’s really exciting."

The first collection they designed for the brand was inspired by Aldous Huxley's dystopian novel The Beautiful New World, published in 1932. A large number of conflicting colors pay tribute to the conflicting colors of the novel, symbolizing liberation and resistance.

In the end, they brought a series of paper nylon jackets, tight-fitting sweaters, and fluffy sculptural dresses with sleeves, reminiscent of the geometric cuts of retro parachutes, all in black, khaki, bronze, leaf green, mulberry purple Color matching with ash.

Many pieces have hand-made details, such as mother-of-pearl decoration, metal-plated horn buckles, and handmade beaded bracelets, each of which took two days to complete.

In the past, Kostadinov's women's collection always felt a bit out of touch with men's wear. There was a clear cross-border interaction between men's and women's wear this season, both tailoring and profile – but Kostadinov said it was not deliberate. But this will undoubtedly help the designer to give the retailer and the media a more coherent overall concept when selling and marketing.

Another graduate of the Central Saint Martins College of Art, Chen Xuzhi, released the series he has worn so far, while the red carpet charm has not been compromised. Emily Dickinson became his inspiration for this season, and the famous American poetess was truly famous after his death in 1886.

Dickinson was unmarried for the rest of his life - this was unusual at the time; her dedication to the art, inner strength, and romanticism made the young Chinese designer adored.

Chen Xuzhi created eight pairs of different shapes for his latest collection, each pair consisting of pure white and colorful shapes. He also said, "After the father's death, Dickinson wore white for a lifetime," the new Gothic-style show at the release was located at Two Temple Plac at No. 2 Temple Square, which is ingeniously in line with this season's inspirational narrative.

Xuzhi's handcrafted works, such as tassel-inlaid lightweight jackets, crayon-toned floral embroidered suits (to pay tribute to Dickinson's love of plants), hand-stitched tulle trench coats, after the show, by the cooperation of Jingdong Mall in China Available for purchase.

He said: "I like to design clothes and also like to tell stories, but let the Shanghai and London teams stick to it, not only need the expression of [creative]. How to balance between business and art is what I need to learn at this stage. of."

Emphasizing the relationship between art and business, it is not difficult to see that since the creation of his brand in 2015, Xuzhi has become the representative of the most popular Chinese designers. His latest collection will also give him more attention.

Later that day, another Central Saint Martin graduate, Matty Bovan, showed his fifth collection at Strand 180. In the past few series, Bovan combines DIY aesthetics and scrapbooking. In February this year, after Lulu Kennedy's Oriental fashion platform continued to show three seasons, he finally ushered in the first personal show, a breakthrough. Sex.

This is an important year for Bovan. In December 2017, the 28-year-old young designer living in Yorkshire was nominated for the British Fashion Awards Rookie Women's Award. Recently, he has won this year's BFC Nugan Scholarship, and his scholarship is to fund his 2019 spring and summer and 2019 autumn and winter series.

This time, with the help of creative consultant Katie Grand and the hat designer Stephen Jones, Bovan delved into the art work of British artist and filmmaker Derek Jarman, which also made the fictional from the distant alternating universe in Jarman's experimental works. The characters are presented on the flyover.

The models are self-contained with colorful, honeycomb hairstyles, wild cuts, corsets, hand-woven flowers and large tulle umbrella skirts decorated with plastic cables. There are also cellophane-treated furry headwear made from dusters, gloves and kitchen utensils, just like the abandoned fields of the future.

“As a designer, my job needs to understand what [consumer] really wants, is interested, and doesn't want, is not interested, to force control of her own taste,” Boven said. “Otherwise there is no need to show me. Thoughts."

But this time there are still many wearing items hidden in the avant-garde works, including digital printing items, Lycra tops, printed knits, and miniature and large neon decorative handbags cooperating with Coach, which are believed to hit consumers. heart.

“I am very interested,” he said, adding more commercial goods. “But the goods must be unique because I also love fantasy.”