Human cotton spandex jersey setting process
Human cotton spandex jersey setting process: pre-formed → seam edge → boiled and bleached → dyed → soaped → dehydrated → expanded → complex shaped → fabric inspection, several major processes are discussed as follows:
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1.1.1 The predetermined shape of the grey fabric is one of the key processes. In the yarn ratio of spandex elastic fabric (human cotton spandex, cotton ammonia, polyester ammonia and other fabrics), although the composition of spandex only accounts for a small amount, the spandex filament is internally present in the weaving process due to its strong action. Large residual stress, easy to produce tensile deformation. Therefore, the human cotton spandex jersey fabric shaping technology is quite difficult, and the arrangement of the production and processing technology will have a great influence on the size and specifications of the fabric.
The purpose of the pre-defined type is to eliminate the internal stress of the grey cloth and make the quality index of the fabric door width and the square meter weight easy to control; the fabric coil is smooth, the cloth surface is bright and bright, and the hand feel is soft. On the other hand, the finished product has good thermal dimensional stability (shrinkage rate), corrects the distortion and wrinkles of the fibers in the textile process, eliminates the uneven internal stress of the fabric during the weaving process, ensures the flatness of the cloth during dyeing, and prevents the dyeing process. Produce strips, creases and chicken marks.
It can be seen from Table 1 that the shaping process of the human cotton spandex jersey is generally based on a dry predetermined type.
Predetermined process:
Equipment door Fuji setting machine temperature 195 ° C
Rate 16m/min
Overfeed 30%-40%
Table 1: Wet-predetermined type and dry-predetermined type difference Wet-predetermined dry-type predetermined door width, poor stability of gram-weight stability, stable production efficiency, high analysis. The analysis of the fabric after the padding by the roll, before entering the shaping zone, the wet state, elastic fabric The elastic elastic recovery rate is poor.
The whole process is dry, and the elastic fabric has a good elastic recovery rate in the dry state.
1.1.2 Before the sewed edge is dyed before the predetermined type, the cloth should be re-sewed into a cylindrical shape. This is because the human cotton spandex knitted fabric has a certain shrinkage. If it is not sewed, the fabric is hot and humid during scouring and dyeing. Under the condition, it is easy to curl, which causes the color difference between the left and right cloth edges, so it is advantageous to form the slit into a cylindrical shape.
Pay attention to the seams: 1. If there is a needle break or a broken thread, tie the knot at the end of the break or the end with a needle to prevent the break at the end or the end of the break before dyeing. . 2. Sewing thread should choose a line with less knots and better strength. When bleaching or dyeing light color, only the white line can be used for the sewing thread, and the colored line is not available to prevent color matching.
1.1.3 The content of spandex in dyed human cotton spandex jersey is generally between 3% and 5%. Generally, only dyed cotton is needed for dyeing, and it is not necessary to consider spandex. However, when the spandex content is high, the dyeing of the spandex yarn should be considered. The dyeing process is analyzed below by dyeing process conditions (as shown in Figure 1).
Dyeing process: infiltration (80 ° C 15 min) → cooling to 40 ° C release → washing → dyeing (60 ° C 30 min 30 min) → washing → pickling (45 ° C 15 min) → soaping (70 ° C 15 min) → pickling → fixing color ( 40 ° C 15 min) → cooling water wash 60 ° C 30 min 30 min, dyeing (dark color, higher temperature)
Process conditions: Dyeing equipment: high temperature overflow dyeing machine (Hong Kong Lixin), bath ratio: 1:15 Figure 1 dyeing process heating curve company selected high temperature and high pressure jet overflow dyeing machine, nozzle pressure and lifting flow drum speed Matching to prevent mechanical friction to cause the fabric surface to fluff. At the same time, attention should be paid to the smoothness in the wall of the dyeing machine to prevent the occurrence of wire drawing and to add a smoothing agent if necessary. At the same time, control the temperature rise and temperature drop, preferably 1 ° C / min, so as to avoid wrinkles, abrasions, chicken scratches and other rickets. In addition, the speed of adding alkali is slow, in order to prevent the color of the cloth surface.
The purpose of soaping is to remove the floating color of the fabric surface, improve the rubbing fastness of the fabric, and make the surface fastness of the fabric meet the requirements of the national standard and the customer. The color is different in depth and temperature. Generally, the light color is 50°C-70°C, the medium color is 80°C-90°C, and the dark color is about 98°C.
1.1.4 Dewatering Centrifugal dewatering machine is a kind of dewatering machine commonly used in knitted fabrics. When dehydrating, the knitted fabric is placed in a porous rotating cage, so that the moisture in the fabric is removed under the condition of high speed rotation due to the centrifugal force.
1.1.5 Before expanding the fabric, it is necessary to expand the width by the opener and then tear off the seam. In order to achieve the effect of making the fabric flat and stable.
1.1.6 The purpose of shaping and shaping the finished product is mainly to eliminate the wrinkles generated during the dyeing process, to keep the surface of the fabric flat, to make the fabric dimensionally stable and to have good shrinkage performance. Therefore, the temperature, speed and overfeed of the shaping must be controlled to ensure the stability of the fabric size, water shrinkage and good elasticity and strength without damage. Choosing the right amount of softener can improve the hand and prevent pinholes (except for the printed blank).
Stereotype process:
Equipment door Fuji setting machine temperature 160 ° C -170 ° C
Rate 20m/min
Overfeed 70%-80%
Softener 3%
The door width is slightly larger than the finished product 1-2CM
2 Factors affecting the dimensional stability of fabrics and solutions In a broad sense, the dimensional stability of knitted fabrics is the ability of the fabric to maintain its original geometric dimensions after washing, cleaning and drying under normal conditions during normal use. The relationship between the processing of the fabric and the dimensional stability of the fabric. The specifications and composition ratio of raw materials, weaving process, blanking, dyeing and other process factors will affect the size instability of human cotton spandex jersey, which is mainly reflected in three aspects: different widths, unstable weight and high shrinkage rate. This paper focuses on the factors affecting the dimensional stability of fabrics from the perspective of the production and processing of human cotton spandex jersey fabrics.
2.1 Influencing factors and analysis 2.1.1 Specification and content of spandex yarn a. When the spandex jersey fabric is woven, the specifications of spandex yarn are different. The commonly used D number of spandex: 20D, 30D, 40D, 70D, 140D. The thicker the spandex filament, the greater the elasticity and the greater the shrinkage of the grey fabric door.
b. The content of spandex is different. There are many varieties of human cotton spandex jersey supplied on the market. The higher the content of spandex, the greater the elasticity, and the more the width of the fabric is retracted, resulting in different widths.
2.1.2 Weaving process The blank structural parameters of the human cotton spandex jersey and the selection of the machine technology are not properly selected. The coil is the most basic structural unit of human cotton spandex jersey. The geometry of the coil and the connection of the coil in the relaxed state directly affect the appearance of the fabric, and also the thickness, elasticity, elongation and dimensional stability of the fabric. To an important role.
2.1.3 Placement of the grey fabric After the blank fabric is unloaded, the degree of natural shrinkage is directly related to the time of placement, the pressure of the pile, the temperature and humidity. Different placement conditions will also result in different billets, affecting the finished door width, square gram weight and shrinkage rate.
2.1.4 Styling operation process In the slack-predetermined type of the fabric and the replica of the finished product, if the temperature, speed and process are not properly operated, such as: parking, detachment, over-feeding, etc., the fabric will be inconsistent. The width and width of the door are narrow and the shrinkage rate is unstable.
2.1.5 gram measurement measurement error will also produce errors when measuring, so the gram weight measurement should be measured in the left, middle and right of the entire width of the door (especially when the rear vehicle pocket is more serious, the left and right weight will be slightly lower In the middle weight, there will be a difference of 10-15 grams in weight when severe).
2.1.6 Regain moisture of the fabric The full resurgence of the fabric leads to an increase in the weight of the fabric (any fabric exists, but the degree of increase in the weight of the fabric varies with the moisture regain of the fabric itself).
2.2 Solution 2.2.1 Reasonable choice of spandex yarn specifications and content According to the different fabric specifications, select the specifications and proportion of spandex yarn, formulate a reasonable weaving process prescription, maintain the uniformity of the coil arrangement, and control the process parameters.
2.2.2 Improve the operation level of the setting process Table 2 The relationship between the machine door width, the gram weight and the final product weight of the finalizing machine. The reason for the analysis of the cloth roller is slightly faster, which will result in the finished fabric after stretching. , longitudinal retraction or (and) laterally large (elastic fabric containing spandex).
The dosage of the auxiliary agent is insufficient. When the spandex fabric is pre-formed, the spandex is not dry-hardened. The spandex yarn is not resistant to high-temperature dry heat, and the scouring agent is not rolled, and the high temperature is damaged.
The temperature and speed of the vehicle, the speed of the vehicle, the concentration of the scouring agent, and any change in the three conditions will cause different degrees of yellowing of the cellulose fibers.
Spandex filaments are thermoplastic fibers that act as skeletons inside the fabric. All of the above factors are not reproducible because of the poor resilience of the spandex or the reproducibility of elastic damage. Therefore, the operation level is improved and the reproducibility of the process conditions is ensured. If you take off the edge, the action should be fast, reduce the speed of the vehicle can not be less than 10 meters, reducing the probability of parking.
2.2.3 Guarantee the accuracy of the knife and the plate. The diameter of the cloth disc when the weight is accurate is 11.28CM, so when measuring the weight, be careful not to stretch the cloth, otherwise the weight of the cloth The diameter (horizontal or longitudinal) will be less than 11.28CM, resulting in a final finished product weight that is higher than the measured weight. It is also important to note that such measurement errors can also give an illusion.
2.2.4 The width of the seam of the seam weft knitted fabric is poor. Therefore, when the seam is sewn, the overlap of the two layers of fabric must be on the narrower one, and the wider one is on the lower. In this way, we can truly achieve the requirements of “flat, straight, firm, and Qi†and eliminate cramps such as edge, curling, and wrinkles.
